Ceramic Tiles
Ceramic tiles are available in an immense range of patterns, colours, finishes, textures and sizes. The type chosen is entirely subjective, but it is prudent to remember that, because fads and fashions change quickly, the more 'in vogue' your selection, the sooner it will date. Whilst classic simple colours and patterns may not be so awe inspiring, they are more enduring and will be enjoyed over a much longer period.
The way tiles are set out greatly affects their appearance and, unless preference dictates, there is no reason why you should follow customary horizontal and vertical lines. Smaller sized tiles and mosaics look exceptionally good when twisted on their axis and presented as a diamond. Although this will involve more cutting, there are an array of cutters and edge-trims available to make the task easier.
Where a standard horizontal grid layout is desired between the underside of kitchen cupboards and above worktops, it is the way tiles are placed against electrical sockets and switches that can make all the difference. Rather than adopting a general build approach, where they are placed randomly, try instead to achieve a recognizable rhythm with logical clean lines. For example, by following the horizontal top edge of a socket through along the wall and the vertical right edge up and down, a grid is created, with the sockets and switches falling methodically into the tile pattern. This produces crisp clean lines that will greatly improve the overall appearance. Bathrooms often benefit from some of the larger Mediterranean sized tiles. The added bonus here is these slabs will cover a vast expanse of wall space quickly and neatly hiding any slight imperfections that may exist in the plasterwork below.
The general principle for tiling a whole wall area is really quite simple and logical. The first determination is, of course, the unit size of your tile and the best joint width. Most DIY shops sell a range of plastic spacers to suit different sizes of grout lines and these make the entire task much easier and neater. If friezes are going to be incorporated into the tile pattern, establish whether these tiles will alter the general flow of the grid and, where they do, mark the positions full-size on the wall, so the rest of the grid can accommodate them. Horizontally centre the tiles on the wall, leaving equal sized margins to the extreme right and left. These outer tiles will probably need cutting to fit, but this arrangement provides for a much more balanced finished result.
Next, consider the vertical setting-out of your wall surface. There are several possible approaches you can take. If the wall is to be fully tiled, follow the same principle as you did for setting the horizontal line, that is, centre the tiles with equal top and bottom margins. If, however, you propose bringing the ceiling colour down the walls as a frieze, the topmost run of tiles will need to be full ones. They must be carefully marked out, so that the run of tiles up and down are calculated and positions established prior to fixing.
The floor should be considered before setting-out the bottom course of tiles. If it is also going to be tiled, find the lowest point of the floor and measure up the wall one tile height. Draw this horizontal line level around the room. Each tile can now be measured around the room and trimmed to fit down to the floor, where appropriate. From this level starting point, the whole wall surface can quickly grow until all walls are fully tiled. Be certain to use fully waterproof (not water resistant) adhesive and grout, as anything less will eventually absorb water, grow mould and decay.
