Things to do in Siena:
Finding the best shops, bars, restaurants, amenities and other secrets
This excellent walk has been carefully designed to quickly orientate you to the best amenities, shops, bars, restaurants, sights, viewing points and other secrets. It includes details of the contrade (districts), highlighted in the biannual bareback horse race Il Palio. If you want to have lunch book a table at Osteria Castelvecchio or pranzo a1 sacco (picnic) by the Duomo about an hour from the start. The walk is split into sections so it can be made shorter.
We start on the balcony of Bar La Costarella Via Di Citta 31/33, overlooking the Piazza del Campo. From the bar, walk down into the Campo to the Torre del Mangia.
Piazza del Campo. The Torre del Mangia is the bell tower of the Palazzo Pubblico Siena's town hall. It was named after the fourteenth Century bell ringer, Mangiaguadagni (spendthrift), who was appointed to climb the 400 steps to ring the bells. It is well worth climbing if you have a head for heights. It is open 10.00-15.15 and they have a maximum of 950 tickets a day. As you walk into the tower the ticket office is straight ahead, the museo civico (museum) is to your right and the steps to the tower are on your left. Coming out of the tower, turn right and take the second right off the campo along Via Del Porrione. Walk past the Osteria Le Logge at number 33 and take the first left by the Chiesa di S. Martino. Walk past the Logge del Papa (1462) and turn right into Via di Pantaneto (University Road) which has lots of useful shops.
The Universia per Stranieri is on the left at number 45 and the 'wash and go' laundrette is directly opposite at number 38. Soon after on the left at number 55 is a small mini-market, good for late night or Sunday provisions. There is a stationer on the right at number 58, and Osteria del Coro, at number 85, which serves good pizza and nightcaps. If you like watching football and rugby, the Walkabout Pub at number 90 shows matches from around the world. There is a cobbler (ciabattino) at number 91 and the Palazzo Bruchi Bed and Breakfast at number 105. The excellent library (biblioteca) is next to the Chiesa di San Giorgio at number 109. Continue along Via Di Pantaneto past the very simple but fun Pizzeria Carla e Franca (number 138) and the cinema Flamma (number 143).
Go under the stone arch and take the first right into Via S. Girolamo, heading towards the clock tower at the Istituto S. Girolamo. Before you reach it turn right up the hill and follow the signs to Piazza di Mercato and the Campo. Take the first left downhill into Via di Salicotto. There are views of the Tuscan countryside and of Prato di S. Agostino across the valley of olive trees. Pass on your left the Museo Contrada Della Torre at number 76. The coat of arms for this Contrada (district) is an elephant with a tower on its back. Small metal shields of the arms can be seen in numerous places, including outside the museum and outside house numbers 80 and 70. Turn left into Via dei Malcontenti and the Piazza del Mercato.
Piazza del Mercato and Old Siena. There is a small antique market at Piazza del Mercato on the third Sunday of the month, open from 10.00 to 17.00. Up to the right, there are views of the back of the Palazzo Pubblico and its ancient wooden roof. Walk up Vicolo di San Salvodore which is the road straight ahead of you as you entered the piazza. Take the first left into Via Giovanni Dupre and into the oldest part of Siena. This district is the Contrada dell Onda, symbolised by a dolphin with a blue crown. This can be seen in the bright fresco at the junction with Vicolo della Fontote and at the contada's headquarters at number 66. At the top of the hill walk through the stone arch just past the Chiesa di S. Giusqpe. To the left of the arch is a small dolphin fountain. Turn right up Via S. Agata and immediately on the left through the iron gates is one of the university canteens (mense).
Walk up the hill and take the first right through the arch, Porta All'Arco, into Via S. Pietro. If it is lunch time take the third left which is signed to the Osteria Castelvecchio (Via di Castelvecchio number 65). This is a Slow Food osteria with a daily changing menu, local specialities and a good wine list. Otherwise take the second left into Via Tommaso Pendola past the small drinking fountain of a baby and a tortoise. The tortoise (tartuca) is the district's symbol, and sits in a field of daisies on the coat of arms. The headquarters of the Contrada della Tartuca is at number 26, and the museum also at number 26. There are tiny tortoises on the plug covers between the first floor windows. During the Palio these are used for the many painted wooden sconces throughout the city. The large ter racotta coloured palazzo at number 37 houses the Societa Dante Alighieri language school.
At the end of the road there is a tiny church with faded frescoes above the door. Turn right into Via Quirco, entering the snail district (Contrada della Chiocciola). Along the road there are small stone plaques with snail illustrations. Walk up past the cinema (Nuova Pendola) and then bear right along the same road. Turn left at the end and then immediately right into Via Stalloreggi, the panther district (Contrada della Pantera) and continue past the fountain to Piazza di Postieria. If you need a spuntino (snack) or want to pranzo a1 sacco (picnic) walk straight down Via di Citta rather than deviating left towards the Duomo. On your right at number 93 is one of the best delis in Tuscany . Here you can buy panini (sandwiches) made to order and fruit from the negozio difrutta e verdura at number 158. The Accademia Musicale Chigiana (music academy) at number 89 holds regular concerts. There is a small post office at number 142. Otherwise turn left into Via del Capitano to walk to the Duomo.
Duomo. Turn right as you enter the Piazza del Duomo from Via del Capitano. Walk along the Duomo's east side, past the unfinished nave and the Museo delllOpera del Duomo. The nave is accessible from the museum and gives panoramic views of the city. Walk through the tall stone arch to the top of the marble steps that lead down to Piazza Giovani. The building on the right of the steps is the Palazzo del Magnifico, which is where the unmarked Saena Iulia language school and the dance school are based, at number 20. Go down the steep marble steps (no hand rail) at the side of the cathedral. Turn right into Via Pellegrini, in the Contrada della Selva and then left onto Via di Citta, passing the coffee bar you started in. The small Caffe Torrefazione Fiorella is at number 13, although you will probably mell the house roasted coffee before you see it. Try the cafe shekerato (shaken with ice) in summer, or splash out on a Blue Mountain coffee (€3).
Continue up Via di Citta and when it forks bear left up Banchi di Sopra (sopra means above and there is also a Banchi di Sotto which means below). Walk up Banchi di Sopra towards Piazza Matteotti. You pass an Odeon cinema on your left at number 31 (through a stone archway and down the stairs on the left) and the Modemo cinema on your right at Piazza Tolomei. On the wall at number 63-65, behind a glass fronted display cabinet, the CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) list the forthcoming walks and excursions. Fellinelli's bookshop is opposite at numbers 52 and 64 (number 52 sells language books). The road now splits into three. Take the middle road, Via Pianigiani, and walk up towards Piazza Matteotti past a large food shop Consorzio Agrario Siena just before the piazza.
Piazza Matteotti. On this piazza, in the district of the dragon (Contrada del Drago) there is a post office, a taxi rank and an UPIM (department store). Turn right when you enter the piazza and along the front of the post office. At the right corner of the Piazza turn along Via Malavolti. This takes you to Piazza Antonio Gramsci and the main bus station, which has an underground ticket office.
Porta Camollia and the north of Siena . If you want to shorten the walk you can go straight to the Fortezza (fortress) from Piazza Gramsci by crossing the park La Lizza on the left. Otherwise continue along Piazza Gramsci and take the first right into Vicolo del Sasso di S. Bernardino and then first left onto Via del Montanini. Continue straight ahead, up Via Carnollia. You soon pass Planeta Fitness sports shop at number 19. There is another sports shop at number 201,Il Maratoneta Sport which advertises local events. The Biciclette Bianchi bicycle shop at no 204/6 has information about cycling events. There are superb views of the surrounding countryside from the end of the road at Porta Camollia. Turn right into Via Campansi and take the first right into Via del Pignattello, passing the Siena motor club (Siena Club Auto Moto d'Epoca) at number 29. After a couple of minutes you emerge in a small square by Istituto Duca degli Abruzzi where you turn right into Via Campansi. Walk straight over the crossroads with Via Camollia and walk up Via del Gazzani. The D.F Moto Noleggi at number 16/18 has bicycles and scooters for rent (biciclette a noleggio). This road leads back to the bus station.
Forte S. Barbara. Cross over the park La Lizzo and bear right to the Fort past the statue of Garibaldi on his horse. At the Fort, there is a large enoteca (wine shop) with a separate bar and the headquarters of Siena Jazz. From the Fort's walls there are views of the old city and surrounding countryside, which are spectacular at sunset. When you leave the Fort turn right into Via XXV Aprile. This runs alongside the right-hand side of the football stadium. At the main road, Viale Vittorio Veneto, turn left into Viale dei Mille and walk over to the large Chiesa di San Domenico. This is opposite a small tourist information centre and the ticket office for football matches. Head down Via della Sapenza and past a walking shop at number 19 and a key cutter next door. Turn right into Via delle Terme which leads back to Il Campo.
