Things to do in Rome
Finding the best shops, bars, restaurants, amenities and other secrets
This walk has been carefully designed to quickly orientate you to Rome's most interesting areas and useful amenities. It includes a viewing point, shops, markets, churches, cafes, restaurants and monuments.
The walk begins at Piazza Bocca della Verita (bus number 170 from the Termini train station) near the Ponte Palatino Bridge. The Piazza is best known for the medieval drain cover that is supposed to snap shut on the hands of liars. This is set into the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin on the Piazza. Unless you want to visit the church, climb the steps passing between two small temples, with the circular second century BC Tempio Rotondo on your left. These are two of the best-preserved Republican temples in Rome.
Cross over the main road and turn right to walk along the edge of the River Tiber. There is a view of Isola Tiberina from this shady beech-lined road. Cross over the pedestrainised Ponte Fabricio ( Rome 's oldest bridge) on to the Isola Tiberina passing a pharmacy Varmacia) and a sign to the Accident and Emergency (pronto soccorso) on your right. The island has been a place of healing since Roman times. Leave the island by the Ponte Palatino, cross over the busy Lungoteverre degli Anguillara and go down a flight of steps into Piazza Piscinula. From here turn right into Via Lungaretta and continue straight until you come out at the busy Viale di Trastevere in Piazza Sidney Sonnino. There is a cinema here on your left. Cross over Viale di Trastevere, passing a tourist information centre and a post office on your left. Continue walking straight ahead to the Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere. If you need an English bookshop (libreria inglese) the Almost Corner bookshop is at number 45 Via Moro. This road comes off the very small Piazza on your right just before Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere.
In Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere there is the thirteenth century Basilica of Santa Maria, which has a mosaic facade and distinctive bell tower. The polygonal pond and fountain date back to the Jubilee Year of 1450. Turn left out of the church into Via Della Paglia, which is a quiet residential street. Take the first left into Via Giacomo Venezian and then the second right, at the post office, into Via Luciano Manara. At the end of this street you can see a large carved arch over a lion's head that was once used as a fountain. Turn left when you reach the arch and after 20m turn right up a flight of steps leading to views of Rome. After a couple of minutes climbing you come out to a road. Cross over to the flight of steps opposite and continue up until you reach Via Garibaldi. Turn right at the top and walk up to the Church of San Pietro Montoria. From the steps of this church you can begin to see some views of the city about 40 minutes from the start of the walk.
Continue uphill on Via Garibaldi passing the Memorial (1849-1870) on your right. Soon there is another viewing spot from a balustrade with stone balls on top. Take the next right turning through a large iron gate onto a cobbled road. This is called Passeggiata del Gianicolo and is a shady walk with views over Rome through the beech trees. Just before reaching Piazzale Garibaldi there is a merry-go-round and bouncy castle for children (bambini). There is also a series of busts, some wearing ornate hats, leading to the Piazzale G. Garibaldi with a statue of the proud man on his horse. From here there is almost a 360 degree view of Rome. There is a small cafe selling the usual over-priced drinks and snacks, and public toilets. It is worth the climb to see this view. Bus number 270 comes up to this Piazzale if you are not a walker.
Retrace your steps along the cobbled road back through the large iron-gate at the T-junction with Via Garibaldi. From here you can either continue retracing your steps back to Via Luciano Manara and then right into Piazza S. Cosimato or take a slightly less pretty short cut. For the short cut take the flight of steps immediately down to your left leading into Via di Porta S. Pancrazio. At the bottom, on the right, is an ancient Roman fountain that is used as an informal car wash. Turn right on to Via Garibaldi and take the steps leading down immediately on your left. At the bottom of these go down the rather dank Vicolo della Frusta leading to the right. At the T-junction at the end of this road turn right and follow the road round into Via Luigi Masi. This is a wide road that is used as a resident's car park. At the T-junction with Via G. Venezian (water fountain on your right) turn right towards the post office and into Piazza S. Cosimato.
This will have taken about an hour from the start of the walk. There is a delightful market selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and local specialities. If you are in need of lunch you could buy a picnic or a slice of pizza Bianca from Il Pane bakers. Next door is the Sanchetti Bar, which sells good fresh cream cakes and a delicious cafe con panna (espresso with cream). These are ahead and to the left as you enter the Piazza. The Hotel Trastevere is directly to your left overlooking the Piazza.
Having refuelled, cross the Piazza into Via Natale del Grande. On the corner there is an Ave Maria in blue neon. Via Natale has every type of shop. The Todis supermarket is on the right, a fishmonger is on your left and a there is a fresh pasta shop at number 140A. If you need some speciality cheese turn right at the bottom of this street to visit Antica Caciara Trasteverina. Otherwise, cross straight over Via S. Francesco into Cardinale Merry del Val. At number 15, on your right, there is the Alcazar cinema and on your left, at number 20, the 'baby park' childcare facilities which have a smart (and expensive) Internet point and 24-hour DVD rental machine.
Keep going straight and cross over Viale Trastevere into Piazza Mastai with its pond and fountain. At the far end turn right into Via della Luce and continue along until you reach Piazza S. Francesco D'Assisi. In front of you is the Chiesa di S.Francesco a Ripa that has Bernini's rarely visited Beata Lodovica in the last chapel on the left. After visiting the church turn right out of door, along the less pretty Via Anicia and take the first right into Via della Madonna dell Orto. The large white Scuola Elementare Maschile runs along the whole length of this road. At the T-junction turn left along Via S. Michele until you reach Piazza S. Cecilia. Santa Cecilia is the patron saint of music. The Basilica has mosaics, frescoes and a pretty courtyard. On your right is the pretty Piazza de Mercanti. Continue straight ahead along Via S. Cecilia. Continue on to Piazza Ponziani and bear left across into Via della Botticella, which leads to the river. Bear left at the river and walk along to the Ponte Cestio. On the left of the bridge is a kiosk which sells a Roman speciality the Grattachecca costing €1.60. It is a type of Roman slush puppy but less sickly. To arrive here should take about two-and-a-half hours from the start of the walk.
Continue crossing back over both bridges and over the busy main road into Piazza di Monte Save110 on the left of the Teatro di Marcello. After a look around this ancient Roman theatre continue left along Via Del Portico d Ottavia into the heart of the Jewish quarter. You pass La Dolceroma chocolate shop at number 20 and the Kosher Taverna del Ghetto restau rant at number 8, where you can try Jewish artichokes and other specialities. Between numbers 2 to 4 there is the Casalinghi multi-purpose shop where you could stock your entire house. At the end of this road turn right if you need another post office, a bookshop or the theatre. Otherwise leave the Jewish quarter by crossing over Via Arenula into Piazza Cairoli and along into Via Giabbonari.
There is a multitude of small boutique shops selling trendy designer clothes. Continue going straight until you come to Campo di Fiori. If you are in the mood for going to the Palazzo Spada Gallery take the small Vicolo Grotte to the left before the Campo. This road like its name is a bit grotty, but leads past a pet shop at number 16 and gym opposite at number 34. At the end of this street turn right into the Piazza Capo di Ferro. The entrance to the Spada Gallery is on your left opposite a fountain. It is worth looking into the courtyard even if you are not an art-lover. When you come out of the Gallery turn left and then immediately right into Via dei Balestrari and onto Campo di Fiori. Useful amenities here include the Farnese cinema and the wine bar La Vineria at number 15. At the back of this bar is a TV for football lovers. Campo di Fiori is where the philosopher Giordano Bruno was burned at the stake for suggesting that the earth revolved around the sun. His statue here serves as a reminder.
From Campo di Fiori take the middle right turning into Via dei Baullari and follow it straight ahead. If you need car or bike hire turn right into Vicolo dei Bovari just before you get to Corso V. Emanuele. At number 7A is a rental shop for bicycles, motorbikes, sailing boats, video camera and cars. Otherwise cross over Corso V. Emanuele and go straight into Via della Cuccagna. The end of this road leads out into Piazza Navona and Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers (1651).
